Kalalau Trail

Unbeknownst to me, one of the hikes we did in Hawai'i has a reputation as being one of the most dangerous hikes in the United States. The Kalalau Trail is a gorgeous hike through a variety of little micro-ecologies along the north coast of Kaua'i. One moment, you are deep in a tropical rainforest and the air is filled with the sounds of tropical birds like one normally hears on those recordings of tropical rain forests. It's like walking through a rain forest exhibit in a zoo or museum... except it's very real. Guava is growing everywhere. Then in the next moment, you are high on a cliff with a full 180 degree view of the ocean and sky. It was not uncommon to see a rainbow somewhere out over the ocean water.

Luckily, I did not read that article about Kalalau being so dangerous, or else I would have been a little more concerned. We did get lucky, however. The weather was only scattered showers and no heavy rains. It was also only just the start of low season, and so the trail was still in good condition. That's the real problem with Kalalau: the trail is simply not that good in places. At it's most extreme, you will be walking along a trail that is at best the width of two feet side-by-side, with an angling drop away into nothing. The ground won't always be rock either, but will sometimes be loose coarse sand that crumbles and slides away from your feet. You will be carrying a pack, and you will be seriously contemplating your sanity.

The trail has other fun tidbits. There are lots of streams along the way, but the risk of bacterial contamination is very high. A filter is required. (If you do this trip, I can recommend a UV light filter as an excellent light weight option.) The sun is also extremely intense. High humidity and heat in the forest valleys, which comprise the first 6 miles or so. The last 5 miles however are largely exposed to the sun and dry. Head protection is needed!

Then there is the physical stamina required. The trail is 11 miles or so in each direction. The trail is rarely flat. It is almost always climbing or descending steep inclines, with the heavy use of switchbacks. By the end, I was swearing under my breath every time I noticed another switchback starting.

The lucky part: we managed to avoid one of the worst risks. In the event of heavy rain, the trail will become impassable. It is very easy to become stranded in between two ex-streams that are now raging torrents. Some folks have drowned trying to ford the streams when the water is high. While we had light rain on the first day, we only really suffered from wet and muddy shoes.

But the trip is worth it. At the end of 11 miles is Kalalau Beach. This is a secluded strip of sand, with it's own waterfall, a small transient community of hippies and hikers, and small caves. The beach is only accessible on foot or via kayak. There aren't many people there. It's exceptionally peaceful. Waking up early in the morning on the second day, we sat and stared and the most beautiful and bright sea of stars I have ever seen.

One last recommendation to hikers. If you try this trail, I suggest you pack exceptionally light. We managed to do the trip carrying about 10 and 20 pounds, respectively. You will be a lot safer on the cliff-side parts of the trail, and have a lot more energy. We saw some folks carrying huge 50 pound packs and hating every moment of it.

And one last thing. Bragging rights. The return trip from the end of Kalalau Beach to the parking lot at the trailhead took us only 6 hours and 7 minutes. I dare you to try to beat that time, and I imagine you'll enjoy the journey.